The Prow (5.8R) on Kit Carson 
Wednesday, July 25, 2012, 07:26 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Kevin and I took a 3 day weekend to play around in the Sangres in celebration of Kevin's 30th birthday. We got a cookie in Crestone, CO before hiking up from the Buddhist Zen Center thruogh Spanish Creek. The blowdown (317 tree crossings supposedly) plus strong rain/sleet did not make the hike in pleasant. The storm blew off though, and we dried/melted our socks and boots with a fire while cooking up some Mountain House and sipping wine.

4:15am - Awake
5:05am - Out of camp after oatmeal breakfast
6:05am - First pitch of climbing - we did it free up to the crux move.
7:05am - Finally roped up and practiced for the overhanging 5.8 crux. Kevin led into the chilly vertical world. I second with freezing fingers and am suprised by the 30 meters of runout on the top of the pitch.
8:05am - I lead pitch 2 and choose to go right and end up off-route and stressed with hundreds of feet of exposure and only a tricam keeping me from a factor 2 fall. I eventually get back on route and fight rope drag to the top of the climb.
9:35am - Kevin joins me at the belay, and he begins simul-climbing the 5.5-5.6 lower angle upper pitches.
11:05am - Summit the prow.
11:35am - Summit Challenger Point
12:30pm - Summit Kit Carson after knocking off the last pitch of the climb.
1:35pm - Summit Columbia Point
2:05pm - Summit Kitty Kat Carson
2:35pm - Summit Obstruction Peak
3:00pm - By now, I've become crippled from my hamstring/knee issue from the 7 mi run a week ago. I hang out in The Bear's Playground while Kevin fastpacks it toward Humboldt Peak. The thunder turns him around and we slowly work our way back to camp down Spanish creek. We enjoy watching all the deer jumping around through the bushes and, with what little strength was left, do a little bouldering.
5:30pm Back in camp for food and bourbon.

We hiked out in the morning and checked out Tres Piedras for climbing options on the way back to ABQ.

Photos


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BBQ Saturday Night 
Monday, July 16, 2012, 08:30 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
AMRC folks joined me on Saturday to BBQ the new batch of grass-fed beef. It was nice to welcome Leigh and Justin back from Denali safe and sound. Very relaxed evening.
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Training (T-minus 2 weeks to Cochiti Lake) 
Monday, July 9, 2012, 08:23 PM - Week activities
Posted by Administrator
Monday: 5+5 bike. 7.4 mi run in the rain and lightning. Good pace though: 8.5 min/mile.
Tues: 5+5 bike.
Weds: 5+18 bike.
Thurs: 5+10 bike.
Fri: 2000 yd swim.
Sat: 48 mi bike. Brutal reaper at good pace. Switched to S 14 and managed OK for a while, but then lost the edge and peddled slow up to the top of the climb. Some combination of breaky, sun, heat, exertion was enough to make me sick - biked home hard with older guy trading off the draft. Going to suck it up at Cochiti!
Sun: 2000 yrd swim. 7.0 mi run - 9 min/mile pace. IT band is pretty tight/torn. Not looking good for the next few days. Vitamin I, here I come.


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Weekend Training 
Saturday, July 7, 2012, 01:34 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Got a sluggish and painful 5.3 mile run in after work on Friday. Ted was sold out, so Ben, Tobi and I hit up a kickball party and then Anodyne.

Saturday morning, I managed to get motivated and bike around the city (40.2 mi). Munched on some fruit and then ran the Ridgecrest lap (3 mi) to the pool and did a continuous 2500 yds (1.4 mi). Brutal workout before the heat kicked in! Relax time!


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Sunday - Climbed Crackula (5.8) with Kevin. Easy approach - right at the junction of the La Luz and Spur trails. I knocked out the first pitch with a few deep breaths, but my placements were good so that made me happy. Kevin easily finished the route. We got off the crest around noon as the monsoon started rolling in. Then I helped Kevin finish building his new chicken coop for the 5 noisey birds.
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AMRC Mission in Navajo, NM 
Thursday, July 5, 2012, 06:10 PM - AMRC
Posted by Administrator
2:40am the phone rings. New text: MISSION 1 or 2 hikers stranded 120' up on a rock in Navajo, NM.

I talked with police and got the status update and GPS coordinates from the field coordinator. 3 hours later, Lance, Paul, Zack and I are standing in front of an impressive block of volcanic rock ("Frog Rock") right in the middle of town. Original reports were for 1-2 patients on the rock, with a stranded firefighter, who tried to get them. 50 degrees, raining, and extremely slick rock. At incident base, the fireman and one patient were down. From the backseat of the cop car the first person said that he didn't know the 2nd guy's name, but called him Palo. I grabbed my trad rack and headed up with Paul, as Lance and Zack circled the monolith searching for the other person. Eventually we roped up a few 5th class moves from the top (with a bomber anchor around a natural arch!). I couldn't in good conscience go for it knowing how poor the rock (dirt?) quality was. Every hold literally exploded in my hand! There was no hope for pro holding, and I didn't know if there was an anchor at the top to get down. Paul and I switched places and he went for the move to the ledge... and made it! Bravo! He reached the top and yelled. No answer. 2 hours of climbing and all we found was an unopened beer and a pipe. Paul managed to get down OK, thanks to Zack's route finding help. We radioed back to IB that there was no sign of him. They radioed back, that he just walked into base. Apparently, he lived a half a block away, just woke up (~10am at this point), and wondered what was all the commotion. The first guy in the cop car was not pleased with the 2nd guy - since he had left him up there all night in the pouring rain in jeans and a t-shirt. It'll be interesting to see how that relationship develops.


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Mission Report by Paul: Youtube
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4th of July near Cedro Peak  
Thursday, July 5, 2012, 05:06 PM - Week activities
Posted by Administrator
Ben and Tobi joined me for a mountain bike ride in the Cedro Peak area. I originally expected to do some combination of Coyote Trail and Chimisoso, but after being lost for the better part of the trip, ended up on the rough Powerline trail. I managed to hit a tree with some help from the babyheads, and now my shoulder's all torn up.

Here's the scoop:
The hard Powerline/Chimosa Trail, unmarked, leaves FR452 west of the tower at the powerline. It starts steeply descending the rocky powerline. After a couple of switchbacks, a narrow, less-used trail takes off to the right (east) through dense juniper, pinon,scrub oak along the north side of the Cedro Ridge. The trail is definite but not used much until you get closer to the intersection with the Chimosa / Mighty Mule (marked). There are some really nice stretches but rocky. The trail climbs up and down several rocky drainages as it generally descends to the intersection. Take the Chimosa or Mighty Mule Trail at the intersection.


We were the yellow line, well off any of the trails that I knew about.

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Cochiti Lake Tri Training 
Tuesday, July 3, 2012, 08:22 PM - Week activities
Posted by Administrator
Signed up for the olympic distance cochiti lake tri. 28 days to train. Time to get busy!

Monday - 5+5 mile bike. 3.3 mi run.
Tuesday - 5+11 mi bike. 1.1 mi swim.
100 free
100 breast
400 free
800 free
300 free
200 free
100 breast
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Sandia Peak Climb 
Saturday, June 30, 2012, 05:32 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
~1:30 on the climb and about 40 min on the decent. New record speed on a bicycle for me: 45.3 MPH. Pretty fast, but I'm sure I could find a steeper hill around here somewhere.


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Iceland June 10-21 
Friday, June 29, 2012, 08:49 PM - Trips
Posted by Administrator
My parents and I rented a car and circled Iceland over the course of 10 days. My mom's version of the trip.


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Photos from the trip are located here.

Some neat spots:

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Chama Float with Jason 
Friday, June 29, 2012, 08:35 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Floated the Chama for the first time this last weekend. We used inflatable kayaks (IKs) and took the Saab 99 up to the put in. After the bridge the water was excellent. 2+/3- waves to play around in. Only sad part was that I lost my coozie.

Pictures


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Mt. Rainier - Liberty Ridge Attempt - May 2012 
Saturday, June 2, 2012, 02:50 PM - Trips
Posted by Administrator
Pictures!

Left ABQ at 8pm on Wednesday and landed at 10pm in the Seattle airport. By the time everyone rounded up gear and loaded into the rental van it was easily 11:30. Lance drove us to the closed road at White River so we shuttled gear up to the TH before dropping the van off. Lance and I were elected/volunteered to complete the extra 4 mi bonus hike. Once we got back to the trailhead everyone was gone - later found hiding from the snow in the women's bathroom asleep. Stashed some beer, and then began our hike around 5am. The sky was already lightening.

Worked our way up the trail. I wore snowshoes but no one else did. It was 50/50 snow/dry. Weighed in at the car my pack was 60 lbs so I wasn't moving too fast. Eventually I worked my way into the front of the group and decided to chance it across a 4ft snow formation on a bridge. I made the first step and broke through and promptly dropped like a rock past the bridge into the river. With the mountaineering boots and snowshoes, I managed to keep my feet dry. As I crawled out of the river and onto the edge of the bridge, I saw the rest of the group huddling around my hole. I smiled at them so they would know that I was alright, and crawled onto the other side of the bridge.



We made our way into glacier basin, only to find tons of avalanche slides. The week before dropped more than a foot of fresh snow. This along with the warm weather meant a lot of wet slide activity. Tom lead as we worked our way toward St. Elmo pass. The deep snow made travel painfully slow. We rotated leaders, but each person in front still tired out quickly. The weather came and went and we were bathed in clouds and then back out of them. The snow came and went.

At St. Elmo pass we took a break, eat some food, and plotted our course through the Winthrop Glacier. After glissading down, Lance took the lead with the probe. He managed to make it though a mile of crevassed ice before handing leadership over to Justin. We were moving painfully slow through the fresh foot of snow and traversed too low -- making the route a painful mixed snow/rock trek. Eventually we gave up on making it to Curtis Ridge for the night and camped in a basin. When I got the tent up, dinner cooked, and gear stowed I had been up for 36 hours. Bed was about 7pm.

In the morning (2am), we were up and getting ready for another full day. The snow had returned and winds were howling. Had some oatmeal and roped up for more traversing. I lead the way with the probe. Stabbing the snowpack a foot in front of my steps I did my best to avoid taking another plunge. The overnight winds and cold had helped consolidate the snowpack a little. I did my best to stay out of the wind loaded areas and move toward Curtis. Eventually the two rope teams made it to the cliff-band and camped out while Justin listened to the weather report in 25 knot winds. I took the opportunity to look for ways down the cliff. Eventually we found a way through, but it was a little tricky. We had to belay people on steep snow past a crevasse to a snow bridge. In the process of moving everyone through this obstacle course, I heard a loud noise of moving snow. The Willis Wall was sliding. I knew this would run once in a while, but this explosion of snow kept coming, and coming, and coming. From the belay stance with Tom, Justin, and Leigh, we watched as our path to Liberty Ridge was swept with the snowy plume. It was scary and impressive at the same time. This effectively ended the Liberty Ridge attempt. We realized it was too dangerous to continue.



We set up camp on Curtis Ridge for the day and watched the Liberty Ridge route slide. Definitely the correct decision to not go up. With the rest came higher spirits though and everyone was enjoying the sun and the time to relax. Plans were made to attempt the Camp Schurman route in the morning.



Up at 2am, it seemed that the group was moving slowly to Mike and I. Eventually we sorted out the route and traversed high back to St Elmo's. I lead the entire route, and managed to fall waist deep into a crevasse twice before asking for the probe. It wasn't given to me, so I used the ice axe to hollow out an opening in the top to jump. As I cut the final chunk of snow free of the opposing wall, it fell for a couple seconds before I heard ice crystals shattering a dozens of feet below me. That really got me freaked out, but I still managed to make it across with my breath held.

St. Elmo proved to be a snowy 45 degree slog. We were all happy to get on top and break for a little bit. Justin scouted the route across the Inter Glacier and confirmed that it would be safe if, and only if, we could make a dash across the high side of the snow field. Mike lead, but as I came over the snowy knoll, I could tell that he had gone too low. He was in the glacier proper and we were in trouble. Justin, came over and called things off. Avy danger was too high and our trip was over.

We glissaded back down a ways, grabbed our stashed poles and snowshoes, and had a few beers back at the trail head. Hard having come so far to not climb higher, but I was happy we made the smart (i.e. safe) decision.

*cue car camping party!


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Playing Tourist in Santa Fe with the Family 
Monday, May 28, 2012, 08:33 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Caught the rail runner up to Santa Fe on Saturday. Everyone was very into the shopping. I managed to run off with an old friend, Lesley, for a few hours while the rest of the gang hit the museums.







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Solar Eclipse on Sandia Peak 
Monday, May 28, 2012, 08:25 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Hiked La Luz with cousins, Anne Elise and Tim, and Aunt Holly to watch the eclipse from the top of the mountain.

Picasa Album
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El Rito Climbs 
Monday, May 28, 2012, 08:20 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
Met up with 10 camper/climbers on a Saturday for some climbing at El Rito.




Sleet!


Car party!


The rough road lead to a minor incident with the van...


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AMRC Pickoff Training 
Sunday, May 13, 2012, 09:20 PM - AMRC
Posted by Administrator
Great training with some of the AMRC regulars at big block. We did a few different pickoff techniques: counterbalance, block and tackle, and confusing variations of the two - leading to lots of time in painful harnesses. Check out the photos for the mass confusion.

Pictures
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Jay Benson Tri Results 
Sunday, May 13, 2012, 08:51 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator


Ok run - started strong but then fell into a slower rhythm at about mile 2. Bike felt fast with all the people that I was passing, but I now know that I lost the race here. Just couldn't push harder for some reason and had slight knee pain. The swim wasn't too quick, but I was breathing every stroke and my flip turns under the lane lines didn't work out perfectly. Overall a relaxed race, with a relaxed result.

5/15 in age group.
43/196 males - 56th on the run, 62nd on the bike, and 37th on swim.
49/441 overall (male, female, and teams).

Results



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High Winds 
Monday, May 7, 2012, 05:34 PM - Week activities
Posted by Administrator
It's so hard getting to work with a sustained 25 mph wind in your face! Especially on a Monday!

Coming back I nearly couldn't hold a turn into the wind... but I did get home in record time. I hope these are the conditions for the tri. I'd be the only one still on the bike by the end!

CURRENT WEATHER from the Photovoltaic Systems Evaluation Laboratory at Sandia National Laboratories in Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Latitude: 35.05 N Longitude: 106.54 W Altitude: 1657 m (5436 ft)

Wind this morning on the ride in
Speed(5 min avg): 12.5 m/s ( 28.0 mph)
Direction(5 min avg): 86 ° (E)
Peak Speed(20 min): 19.6 m/s ( 43.8 mph)

Wind this afternoon coming home
Speed(5 min avg): 15.5 m/s ( 34.7 mph)
Direction(5 min avg): 84 ° (E)
Peak Speed(20 min): 22.3 m/s ( 49.9 mph)
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Warrior Dash 2012 
Saturday, May 5, 2012, 08:29 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
I took and unimpressive 255th out of 8396 racers at the New Mexico Warrior Dash. But I got really muddy!

Pictures
Results
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Pics of Revenge of the Elderly from Mike 
Saturday, May 5, 2012, 07:26 AM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator



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Friday Training 
Saturday, May 5, 2012, 07:23 AM - Training
Posted by Administrator
Biked hard to south gate on the way home in my new tri outfit. Then swam a few laps:

400 free
100 back
100 breast
400 free
100 free sprint
450 free




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